tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22090672986369818142024-03-13T23:48:14.688-07:00Cycle Kart DesignSingle Seat Motorcycle Powered Kart Design and TheoryWelchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-12755129944621773962018-02-22T18:35:00.000-08:002018-02-22T18:35:07.208-08:00The Michigan Cyclekart Club<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Lots of phone videos, some action cams, and a drone later we achieved the following video. With the help of Conner Lawlis, I present for your viewing pleasure "Michigan Cyclekart Club" (on ice) lol<br />
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Thanks to everyone that participated, and contributed to this fun and family friendly event! Another great (and chilly) year! -CW</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-62833580841484741032018-02-22T18:30:00.002-08:002018-02-22T18:30:53.444-08:00Ice Event Year 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
In our 4th year of CK building, there is a healthy interest in both the sport and attendance!<br />
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Here's a 360 video shot with a Samsung Gear 360 "eyeball" camera, on a Feiyutech Gimbal.<br />
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yeah buddy! -CW</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-86518665529072337202017-03-19T16:56:00.001-07:002017-03-19T16:56:13.047-07:00The Oak<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-36850967267800559012017-02-04T19:13:00.001-08:002017-03-19T12:00:25.277-07:00Ice Driving<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-59657321496205770372017-02-03T22:07:00.001-08:002017-02-03T22:07:19.543-08:00Preliminary body<p dir="ltr">This just shows a preliminary body. Usually what happens if I decide to make a body the night before a race, and it usually turns out half of what I thought it would be. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Getting in and out of the chassis is difficult with the bulkheads in this position. There is a good solution that James came up with where the body is hinged at the front.</p>
<p dir="ltr">This is a good method and I will try to make this work for tomorrow.</p>
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<p dir="ltr">The images here show my hanging meat scale and a couple of ratcheting cargo straps. As it turns out my initial weight is 136-140 lbs. I find that the scale is fairly accurate, but I always error on the heavy side by 5 lbs or so when weighing karts with it. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Still this is alot lighter than I hoped for. I think there are areas that I can add lightness to once I start on the aluminum version. But for now this will be a good prototype proof of concept "breadboard" model and will be a good platform for testing many ideas I've had over the years. Stay tuned for ice updates this weekend. -<u>CW</u></p>
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After some detail work getting the brake lines replaced and re-bleeding the brakes (i will report that in a later post) i felt like it was time to do a walk around video of just the chassis. A couple things to note in this video:<br />
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a. yes I have wheel chocks - just did a quickie video for the blog<br />
2. the 'go anywhere seat' that is placed here is just for measuring the pedals and wheel position. eventually all that will be updated to something more visually pleasant.<br />
d. because it's cold here (33deg F) and because the oil i'm using is 10/40 and not 5/30 like it should be, the idle is hard to set and the bugger wants to jet off into the sunset with or without me!<br />
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Here's the vid...enjoy! (cheesy soundtrack to boot!)<br />
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It was pretty funny trying to manipulate all this while one-handing my phone. Also kinda funny watching me attempting to stop the forward movement of the chassis using only the air filter as a hand grip...and even more ridiculous is the foot-on-brake action mid-video. What the heck was I thinking on that? All I can guess is that I was seeing if there was brake pressure? whatever > dumb > hilarious! -CW</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-85203440589525195452017-01-23T17:17:00.002-08:002017-01-23T18:06:05.642-08:00Engine test 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Was able to trouble shoot the belt idle issue and try 4500 rpm today. As it turns out everything is working smoothly, although it would be preferable to get the idle to sit at 1200rpm (or lower) so either the vacuum lines on the fuel pump are not creating enough fuel pressure, or the timing is off. My guess is the timing, which is an easy fix. Enjoy the video! - cw</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-29806114449875763992017-01-22T12:45:00.001-08:002017-01-22T18:51:45.465-08:00Status: Engine and Rear-Axle Test 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Here is the back end all put together, tightened down, and basically ready to run. The TAV2 is rated at 6-8hp, but the engine is easily producing more than that. My throttle cable is limited in travel slightly, so I have to fine tune that, but it's a good thing since I have no RPM limiter. The mounting strategy seems to be robust, and the chain has a nice firm tension on both sides. There is a slight fuel leak at the carb - probably because I cleaned it yesterday and didn't put the cup back on 100% properly. Gotta take off and re-attach because the flywheel will cause enough spark to set that on fire.<br />
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The sound of this engine is alot like a Harley Davidson (with this header) and clearly the balance of the crank is off (stock crank). I want to get some info from Comet and GTC to find out if they have something more robust. I have a feeling that something isn't right, it should not be spinning the belt on idle. -cw<br />
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-13780335132333913852017-01-14T23:00:00.001-08:002017-01-14T23:59:01.414-08:00Great success<p dir="ltr">I had a difficult time finding pipe that would sleeve over my 1.25 axle for correct wheel spacing. As it turns out the only thing suitable is something called 'Schedule 80' which comes in a 1.257 inside diameter. There are several methods to properly space your wheel hubs away from your chassis, I'm using this method because it's the most robust in my experience.</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uzjac6ON1do/WHsePIUuVrI/AAAAAAAALu8/9qA408LRYbs/s1600/20170114_164533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uzjac6ON1do/WHsePIUuVrI/AAAAAAAALu8/9qA408LRYbs/s640/20170114_164533.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Here is my trusty cutoff saw. Usually at home at a construction site but perfectly cozy in my tiny workshop under the counter. It takes a patient steady hand to get through heavy pipe (like this one) without warping the disc from the heat. Be patient and take your time, and it will cleanly cut through.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rvnkBlC1pTY/WHsoEmx8k7I/AAAAAAAALvI/UG3wV8PP2ww/s1600/20170114_165104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rvnkBlC1pTY/WHsoEmx8k7I/AAAAAAAALvI/UG3wV8PP2ww/s640/20170114_165104.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">After some cutting and filing, I cut a notch (using a cutoff wheel) for the keyway. One thing to note, I put the keyed hub (right side) opposite the drive sprocket (mounted on the left side of the axle) to allow the axle to twist. Im hoping a bit of axle twist will work in my favor. Without a cushion drive it's possible the hub bolts will shear off since they don't go all the way through. Frankly I'm curious to see what happens! My engine and chain setup let's the maximum torque of the engine and TAV2 spin the rear axle. Every last bit of damping may be neceasary.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j_RV6egPN_4/WHso7SjISuI/AAAAAAAALvM/d-gOQ-ZZmM0/s1600/20170114_174823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j_RV6egPN_4/WHso7SjISuI/AAAAAAAALvM/d-gOQ-ZZmM0/s640/20170114_174823.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Here is another view from underneath. Using this method keeps the wheels from drifting along the width of the axle and eliminates 2 additional locking collars.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zDDj2KPDJBg/WHsp1A_fC8I/AAAAAAAALvQ/pFxr1XENZww/s1600/20170114_174838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zDDj2KPDJBg/WHsp1A_fC8I/AAAAAAAALvQ/pFxr1XENZww/s640/20170114_174838.jpg"> </a> </div>Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-5433203090105323702016-12-27T18:33:00.002-08:002016-12-27T18:58:59.670-08:00Give me a Brake<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I'm excited about this post because it's been a long time in the making.<br />
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When I started this project over 2 years ago, some of the parts I purchased along the way were experimental. For example, I found a go-kart brake kit for an off-road go-kart called a Hammerhead, and the kit was affordable. I think I paid $80 for the entire thing, which included a master cylinder, a rotor, and a caliper with line attached. At the time I didn't really inspect it that thoroughly, and just assumed it was fairly standard as far as brakes and calipers go.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ZJ Brake Cylinder and Caliper (w/ my fabricated bracket)</td></tr>
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After installing my rear axle, with the ZJ rotor attached, everything seemed to be in order....But that was totally not the case. In fact the hub for the rotor was interfering with the caliper bracket which I had fabricated from some angle stock. It took a few dozen tries of attaching, grinding, re-attaching, re-grinding and fitting to make the caliper sit in a spot that would achieve any type of clamping force. But there simply was not enough contact between the rotor and the caliper. In the pic below you might see evidence of grinding and cutting the aluminum hub. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bracket not so much...</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unfortunate choice of Rotor Hub</td></tr>
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The rotor hub was a problem. It was originally intended for a totally different application (drive sprocket), so the section did not really work with the caliper bracket. In the pic below you can see how close the bracket was to the hub, and why it caused problems. As the brake rotor and hub spun, it had the unfortunate tendency to interfere with the shape of the caliper. A new solution was inevitable. Later I learned that these calipers are meant to be attached to an axle bracket, usually not much bigger than the axle itself.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1AgzBrJUoOw/WGMYpztsymI/AAAAAAAALq0/wvqAqhiwu20O6_a_8QQw6oZf7D98L64OACLcB/s1600/brake-dont-fit-closeup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="598" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1AgzBrJUoOw/WGMYpztsymI/AAAAAAAALq0/wvqAqhiwu20O6_a_8QQw6oZf7D98L64OACLcB/s640/brake-dont-fit-closeup.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Section of hub/rotor vs. caliper/bracket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It soon became evident that the brake system that in my mind would perform sufficiently, in design was the wrong application. So I took a step back to evaluate where I was and where I wanted to go. I was close to completing the functional parts of the chassis at this point so I was a bit frustrated, which was exactly why I needed to step back and take a broader look. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vdqczrsux10/WGMeI1PMsvI/AAAAAAAALrg/wz89ncbnxOIpty44rDWmORn8FNVAY6pugCLcB/s1600/before-night.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="544" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vdqczrsux10/WGMeI1PMsvI/AAAAAAAALrg/wz89ncbnxOIpty44rDWmORn8FNVAY6pugCLcB/s640/before-night.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not quite ready to test yet...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I retreated for a few weeks, and gave it some serious thought. Thats when I realized that the brake I scavenged from the Rotten Tuna was still in the spare parts box. I pulled it out, cleaned off the 2-years of grime that accumulated on it from sitting in my friends back yard, and not surprisingly it worked perfectly. But the compression ferrules were shot. I needed new ones - and the hardware store does not carry this particular type of cone-style ferrule with a flange, it's an aircraft grade part for AN-3 sized lines.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ozsIe6enBps/WGMb8lb49_I/AAAAAAAALrQ/vGGx_wMMaro-IbPU4OSF42J3zo-3K2l2QCLcB/s1600/brake-stuff-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ozsIe6enBps/WGMb8lb49_I/AAAAAAAALrQ/vGGx_wMMaro-IbPU4OSF42J3zo-3K2l2QCLcB/s640/brake-stuff-11.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ferrules...old vs. new</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you are not familiar with the ArmyNavy standard thread sizing have a look here:<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">AN Threads on Wikipedia</a></div>
More or less it's a brass 3/16" inside-diameter cone-ferrule with a compression flange.<br />
Then I had the choice of using the traditional MCP nylon tube style lines, or doing something a bit upscale and choosing a braided line. I was able to find a 60" line from 'Allstar Performance' that did the job well (see pic below). Also in this pic is a new 8.25" MCP rotor, with a 4 point hub.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UaR5J30K_Pc/WGMe59b90iI/AAAAAAAALrk/r9i-Ar7s7iEkJhj9kdSxOS6Jp9nMWLgQgCLcB/s1600/brake-stuff-01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UaR5J30K_Pc/WGMe59b90iI/AAAAAAAALrk/r9i-Ar7s7iEkJhj9kdSxOS6Jp9nMWLgQgCLcB/s640/brake-stuff-01.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">new parts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So there was a bracket that needed to be fabricated for the caliper which was a small project in itself, and then another bracket for the master-cylinder. For the Caliper I chose steel. I had some leftover angle iron...some cutting and welding and then had a bracket.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dNJWrh7oG0E/WGMfx4o51AI/AAAAAAAALrw/khYbELZYmZ8Q-qTmGMlPPZIhNwXx0DFqACLcB/s1600/brake-stuff-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dNJWrh7oG0E/WGMfx4o51AI/AAAAAAAALrw/khYbELZYmZ8Q-qTmGMlPPZIhNwXx0DFqACLcB/s640/brake-stuff-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steel Brake Caliper bracket in place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-urKPs69Nxdw/WGMfxt3sBtI/AAAAAAAALrs/Z-3WyPnA9SwKg4flkOBdHR6XkEPykhDxQCLcB/s1600/brake-stuff-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-urKPs69Nxdw/WGMfxt3sBtI/AAAAAAAALrs/Z-3WyPnA9SwKg4flkOBdHR6XkEPykhDxQCLcB/s640/brake-stuff-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Brake caliper and Rotor assembly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then for the brake master cylinder bracket I didn't have much steel around but plenty of aluminum so I decided to try brazing. For small areas, that are not-structural, brazing works good on aluminum but I would not rely on it for anything that is a major structural part. Brazing Aluminum rods rely on a temperature of around 800º on the surface of the metal to achieve phase change. The result is a strong bracket that is very light.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--qrTBCVPoL0/WGMiVM_uM8I/AAAAAAAALsE/1zOe6IxFDykcg0qriRIB0HQDOovNi8PLQCLcB/s1600/brake-stuff-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--qrTBCVPoL0/WGMiVM_uM8I/AAAAAAAALsE/1zOe6IxFDykcg0qriRIB0HQDOovNi8PLQCLcB/s640/brake-stuff-6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MCP master cylinder and DOT5 brake fluid</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ef6ogOG5pmE/WGMiUTSpWkI/AAAAAAAALsA/ZkzeT0xcQw0K5sBLw0rOg31-5MAaxGRLwCLcB/s1600/brake-stuff-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ef6ogOG5pmE/WGMiUTSpWkI/AAAAAAAALsA/ZkzeT0xcQw0K5sBLw0rOg31-5MAaxGRLwCLcB/s640/brake-stuff-8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New brake pedal in position</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cix-2z7xwl8/WGMiv5SGqzI/AAAAAAAALsI/okZDwEoLGfofA91hMdlmpB2OMcGNHd_-wCLcB/s1600/brake-stuff-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cix-2z7xwl8/WGMiv5SGqzI/AAAAAAAALsI/okZDwEoLGfofA91hMdlmpB2OMcGNHd_-wCLcB/s200/brake-stuff-9.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
One thing to mention here is the pedal itself. Usually go-kart pedals are attached to the master cylinder using an adjustable tie-rod, in case there are small adjustments needed. Since this is going to be a binary system, I decided to attach the pedal directly to the master cylinder. This meant that I had to use the same pivot for both the pedal and the rocker on the master-cylinder. It already has a good pivot, although small, so after making a larger hole it fit a 3/16" shoulder bolt easily.<br />
<br />
<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LleqmhOr5H0/WGMkXhimx2I/AAAAAAAALsY/SbG7U8iJLeIo9ECrCQGembjsQ4FHK3z0ACLcB/s1600/brake-stuff-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LleqmhOr5H0/WGMkXhimx2I/AAAAAAAALsY/SbG7U8iJLeIo9ECrCQGembjsQ4FHK3z0ACLcB/s640/brake-stuff-5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Full view of Brake Assembly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-42429334391431237552016-12-14T19:14:00.003-08:002016-12-25T18:59:45.302-08:00Sprocket and Brake Balance<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pU4d0b5w_VI/WFIJt4qZjyI/AAAAAAAALjQ/U5VelQ4sPeIg6bQix9UvbyJYlJ_s6os7wCLcB/s1600/20161109_195305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pU4d0b5w_VI/WFIJt4qZjyI/AAAAAAAALjQ/U5VelQ4sPeIg6bQix9UvbyJYlJ_s6os7wCLcB/s320/20161109_195305.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If I get it right, the weight of the axle will be balanced from left to right. Counting the 'drive hub' as weight on one side is part of the equation, as is tension on the drive sprocket from the chain. The holes I cut in the floor of the chassis are wide enough to adjust slightly. Thinking about it now as I write, it may have been easier to do this on a bench prior to mounting everything, but I'm not that patient I guess.<br />
<br />
In any case this pic shows what the stuff looks like without the engine in the way. -CW</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-51114884854156743112016-12-14T16:15:00.002-08:002016-12-14T18:25:47.300-08:00Early Changes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0UCdVEEJlCo/WFHeJZwcy_I/AAAAAAAALiI/yfFw77oYHW4_boAIicjkFeFRJdgSv1lzACLcB/s1600/20161009_183056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0UCdVEEJlCo/WFHeJZwcy_I/AAAAAAAALiI/yfFw77oYHW4_boAIicjkFeFRJdgSv1lzACLcB/s640/20161009_183056.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Here's an older pic of the early layout <i>prior</i> to attaching things.<br />
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>The front axle is too wide, and the rear axle bearings are not mounted. </li>
<li>The steering rack & pinion are not located yet, </li>
<li>and the rear bulkhead in front of the engine box is in the wrong place. </li>
</ol>
I made the wood chassis in a quick short burst during the summer to try and get things off-top-dead-center, and made mistakes along the way. As evident by the multitude of connecting arms laying in the front part of the chassis, I was hunting for the proper length. Like an idiot I ordered way too many of the 'kits' when I could have easily purchased a single rod length at a time. It ended up with 13.5" rods.<br />
<br />
The oversized front axle length was a cause for concern. I purchased a 44" aluminum tube with a .375" wall hoping to trim and weld it. After it was welded the guy who did it asked me if I thought it was too long...smart ass. Yeah it was too long! So began the careful plotting to make it narrower.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f_2_w4ttYik/WFHfoEdu_ZI/AAAAAAAALiU/nxobkAYFYAodm6DwcGcBm8l-zKKxpargQCLcB/s1600/2016-10-27%2B11.37.40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f_2_w4ttYik/WFHfoEdu_ZI/AAAAAAAALiU/nxobkAYFYAodm6DwcGcBm8l-zKKxpargQCLcB/s640/2016-10-27%2B11.37.40.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
The result was this spliced tube, and a 5/8" rod. I spliced it all back together and added some set-screws. It needs to be re-welded at some point (Stephen if you are reading this there's another $60 in your future), but for now I think it's OK. It's tough to tell here, but I thought I was good with these steering linkages, but they were way too short. If you look closely at this pic, it shows the threads on the HEIM joints completely exposed. Like I said, getting the right length rod at this point made all the difference. -CW</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-22390953010536057382016-12-12T19:43:00.000-08:002016-12-14T16:36:45.336-08:00Engine Stuff<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
If you feel bored one day, take your engine apart. It's a good lesson in how to put things back together properly, with the correct torque values, and will give you more confidence when it comes time to modify. One thing to note is that the accurate torque values of the bolts on a Harbor Freight 212 Predator are tricky to discover. PM me if you want the proper numbers - the forums may be misleading.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_s2hHFJMV8/WE4bBDCJIfI/AAAAAAAALgs/8XeHQTxJThYwMSDGxcUfqOS-IAFcnOIJwCLcB/s1600/20161016_192301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_s2hHFJMV8/WE4bBDCJIfI/AAAAAAAALgs/8XeHQTxJThYwMSDGxcUfqOS-IAFcnOIJwCLcB/s400/20161016_192301.jpg" width="400" /> </a></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Engine Apart</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
The Harbor Freight 212 Predator is also very easy to completely mess up permanently. In this picture from right to left top to bottom are the individual assemblies:<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Torque Converter 'clutch as driven' can be ignored - its just in the picture</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Case cover with bolts</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Head cover with pulse valve</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Crankshaft</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Carburetor spacer w gasket</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">ARC flywheel and coil</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Cam (shown here is a custom modded cam)</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Carburetor</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Main case with governor and oil sensor removed</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Stock Piston and connecting rod</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">ARC billet connecting rod and 'flat' piston</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Stock head with 18lb springs (yellow stripe) </span></li>
</ul>
<br />
The 212 is 1/5th the price of a real performance engine like the Briggs Animal. So for beginners it's a good choice.<br />
<br />
And is based on the original (and legendary) Honda GX200, the Predator 212 has become the 'enthusiast' engine.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0iPPLHbZSm4/WE4caPRoCjI/AAAAAAAALg0/wYALSkSvcwE5KCtaOXEqVCRh-kOiByTWACLcB/s1600/6067_700x700.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0iPPLHbZSm4/WE4caPRoCjI/AAAAAAAALg0/wYALSkSvcwE5KCtaOXEqVCRh-kOiByTWACLcB/s320/6067_700x700.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
The GX200 is a precise, reliable tool and is the most consistent of any small engine you can buy. Which is why it's used for more than any application in the world. Snow-blowers, generators, concrete mixers, you name it. If you want alot of torque and not alot of weight, this is what works.<br />
<br />
BUT...<br />
<br />
If you have the means, or if you just want "the best" then the <a href="http://racing.briggsandstratton.com/racing-engines/karting/formula" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Briggs & Stratton Animal - World Formula</a> is the engine you want. Purist's will say that its still parts fabricated in China just like the Honda and Harbor Freight blocks (possibly from the same casting companies). But the difference with the World Formula engine is that it's hand tuned by B&S racing. Suffice to say, the most powerful and reliable small racing engine that you can buy. You can option it with or without an electronic starter among other features. With some minor tuning it can generate 18hp at 7100 RPM. This thing is insane. -CW<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ifKdOgXFVok/WFHb2jXxnMI/AAAAAAAALh4/Cx_8jcuSiGoEJ6NhdzSBXjr9dMfAoQwhQCLcB/s1600/briggs-world-formula-engine.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="417" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ifKdOgXFVok/WFHb2jXxnMI/AAAAAAAALh4/Cx_8jcuSiGoEJ6NhdzSBXjr9dMfAoQwhQCLcB/s640/briggs-world-formula-engine.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yRqi1YIGrYY/WFHb2nsU4fI/AAAAAAAALh8/P2UtFqlzq6IhZ_NEKmXzEF9kt9F-OKXPgCLcB/s1600/go-kart-world-formula-four-stroke.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yRqi1YIGrYY/WFHb2nsU4fI/AAAAAAAALh8/P2UtFqlzq6IhZ_NEKmXzEF9kt9F-OKXPgCLcB/s640/go-kart-world-formula-four-stroke.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AMkCuzgMDuA/WFHb2bIRPVI/AAAAAAAALh0/iQKPZI-zbN00UZTSwMf-KhkIfKD1Fl_kACLcB/s1600/world-formula-gokart-engine.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AMkCuzgMDuA/WFHb2bIRPVI/AAAAAAAALh0/iQKPZI-zbN00UZTSwMf-KhkIfKD1Fl_kACLcB/s640/world-formula-gokart-engine.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-66820454798974737832016-12-11T19:34:00.000-08:002016-12-11T19:34:04.929-08:00Shop Stuff<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T6rshD7JXLA/WE4Fa7G0qKI/AAAAAAAALgQ/qPJHgnFSg9EQA660Yz5T_dc3e-REP33qwCLcB/s1600/20161027_061536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T6rshD7JXLA/WE4Fa7G0qKI/AAAAAAAALgQ/qPJHgnFSg9EQA660Yz5T_dc3e-REP33qwCLcB/s640/20161027_061536.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my romance with the drill press</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Once in a while it becomes obvious that the tools being used to build these things can make or break the fun you are having. Back in 2014 I was on the hunt for a drill press. So I got on craigslist and hunted around, to find a 3/4 hp stand up press for about $700. This one had a solid construction and came with a 'speed chuck' and after a few uses proved its worth.<br />
<br />
I don't recommend using even the best drill press for engine parts however, use a Milling Machine for that. I remember watching videos of a formula one fabrication shop using a drill press with no locators or punches on an all-aluminum block and thought 'damn that's awesome' but since then learned that was all for show. -CW<br />
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-36658795278096532482016-12-11T06:54:00.002-08:002016-12-14T19:19:10.103-08:00Engines, Rods, and Flywheels<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
When I started this project my goal was to use replacement performance hop up parts to make the 212 Predator into a beast. My plan was<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Replace the stock flywheel with an ARC billet flywheel for 212cc Predator</li>
<li>ARC billet connecting rod for 212cc Predator (not honda clone rod - its too long)</li>
<li>Increased compression piston</li>
<li>18lb valve springs</li>
<li>Pulse valve head cover - for fuel pump</li>
<li>Number .036 carb jet (recommended)</li>
<li>mesh style oiled air filter</li>
<li>Oil sensor removed</li>
<li>RPM limiter governor removed</li>
<li>digital RPM meter</li>
<li>ARC throttle plate</li>
<li>Exhaust manifold</li>
<li>ARC billet Flywheel</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zR4nyMDavSQ/WFILmu02D2I/AAAAAAAALjc/D1uREqJ_vTkAouuDZNWOQ4b7YZJOiCqbACLcB/s1600/20161015_081102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zR4nyMDavSQ/WFILmu02D2I/AAAAAAAALjc/D1uREqJ_vTkAouuDZNWOQ4b7YZJOiCqbACLcB/s320/20161015_081102.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ARC Billet Flywheel</td></tr>
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Which was going to produce (in theory) 8-9 hp. I didn't want the power of the engine to put undue stress on the torque converter or belt. In the past I have seen damage done by not having the correct wall stock or pressure tension on bits of the Comet TAV2 and other versions. What happens is the bell-housing on the 'clutch-as-driven' tends to bend at the keyway. There are lots of issues with rotational velocity regarding the belt and the chain also. Eventually having a 25hp engine will cause things to disintegrate and fly about causing all sorts of mayhem and potential hospital visits. I prefer to avoid all that.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PRjJqid83m4/WE1nxINClOI/AAAAAAAALf4/kyUXbMRJv3sWed0f18dlydXgR4GiAX5TwCLcB/s1600/DSC00148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PRjJqid83m4/WE1nxINClOI/AAAAAAAALf4/kyUXbMRJv3sWed0f18dlydXgR4GiAX5TwCLcB/s320/DSC00148.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All together now</td></tr>
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There is a tale of woe that I could write here about the first attempt made to install all these parts but I will skip that for now. Instead here's what the engine looks like installed, 4 mounting bolts, and 8 bumper cusions above and below the chassis to eliminate vibration. The whole engine tends to rock a bit under torque, so like in the past I need to install a tension bolt to keep the engine from rocking towards the front left corner when the power is on. -CW</div>
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-56705824121659638562016-12-11T06:39:00.001-08:002016-12-25T19:01:24.543-08:00Rear End Development<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
If you saw the rear axle in my 3D model, it shows that the drive sprocket and the brake are positioned symmetrically opposite on the centerline. This is an attempt to balance the axle while spinning. As it turns out the brake is much heavier than the drive sprocket, so realistically this wont happen...I need to recalculate the rotational velocity of the axle and the moving parts to find a center, or add ballast to the drive sprocket.<br />
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The drive sprocket is aluminum in this case and weighs about 3.5 lbs. The brake is heavier and weighs about 8 lbs. Its not a critical item at the speeds this vehicle will move, but if I decide to 'level up' and make a full car out of this design I will need to balance the axle to keep the axle from feeling the effects of torque steer. Without a 'cush drive' on the rear axle, the tendency to torque steer is increased, and having such a short length of chain isn't helping. The longer the chain the more tendency to stretch though, and lose power.<br />
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Here is how the back end came together.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WLYM22E8L-c/WE1frxOA4oI/AAAAAAAALfE/c2fELWxlvNItN4LWg8zpatVxwTN_-VhCwCLcB/s1600/20161015_081116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WLYM22E8L-c/WE1frxOA4oI/AAAAAAAALfE/c2fELWxlvNItN4LWg8zpatVxwTN_-VhCwCLcB/s400/20161015_081116.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">its only wood...</td></tr>
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\When I first put the engine in place, my idea was to sit the block on top of a plate of steel or aluminum above the axle. As things progressed, I realized I could sink the engine lower and get less height over the rear body cover. What you see here is me removing the bulkheads from the back end to make room for the new engine placement, and axle position. I drilled a single hole here to get started, then made a hasty retreat to regroup and come up with a better plan.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_0jxXNJ4w9k/WE1gd8aG9HI/AAAAAAAALfI/rnLC1hAQMvkbtPHkNbNx2PbZi9S9lPM_wCLcB/s1600/20161029_152424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_0jxXNJ4w9k/WE1gd8aG9HI/AAAAAAAALfI/rnLC1hAQMvkbtPHkNbNx2PbZi9S9lPM_wCLcB/s640/20161029_152424.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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At this stage you can see the idea of where the drive sprocket wants to live (left-hand-side) because the Torque Converter jack sprocket lives there. This pic also shows how low the engine sits in the body, and relative to the axle. The engine bearing sits almost at the same height as the rear axle (just a bit lower) which is perfect for my rotational-momentum forces. If I get it right, the back end will accomplish a minor gyroscopic effect keeping things more balanced at high speeds than normal.<br />
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I did not want the sprocket to be too far away, and I did not want the axle behind the engine. This meant I had to modify the stock design of the torque converter. This isn't the first time having to do this, here's a pic of the previous kart's TAV2 and how it was modified. James M did some trimming on it with his magical milling devices:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M2NatjQeymw/WE1hGcRPVcI/AAAAAAAALfQ/8Q5swlOEOu4O2p-P5cB1VafSmk0fXF06gCLcB/s1600/clutch%2Bplate%2Bmods.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M2NatjQeymw/WE1hGcRPVcI/AAAAAAAALfQ/8Q5swlOEOu4O2p-P5cB1VafSmk0fXF06gCLcB/s400/clutch%2Bplate%2Bmods.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Torque Converter Mods</td></tr>
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Most Torque Converters come with a mounting plate that is designed to have an axle behind the engine. Frankly I think that sucks. In any case the solution to my problem is to compromise. In order to have a clean path for the chain, the casting material on the torque converter needs to be cut away which you see in this picture. The path of the chain needs to be clear of any sharp standoffs, the chains tend to flop around when braking, and accelerating abruptly or even at the same time. We chop alot of chains without having a chain tensioner - another thing that I will talk about later.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Brake Disc</td></tr>
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Fast forward a bit to the latest mods. You can see that the chassis has some wood structure added to follow the shape of the body, which required some creative trimming. Point being the brake disc as it sits now is PERFECT at a whopping 8.25" and .25" thick. This guy will handle the heat and provide some serious stopping power. I picked up this bad boy from MCP which is in Ohio.<br />
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You may notice a bit of oil staining and wood burn marks in the area that the brake sits. This is because previously to this photo I had a different brake setup, which consisted of a $%!& brake system from something called a 'hammerhead' go kart. Needless to say that did not work. No need to bore you with why - unless you have one and are trying desperately to make it work. PM me and I will give you a history lesson. (eventually i may write a post-mortem on that thing).<br />
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And here is a detail view of what happens when you buy 'off-the-shelf' parts and need to retrofit.<br />
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This isn't the ideal situation for mounting a flange bushing, bare threads in wood with a few washers are not my idea of a solid mount. So more than likely I will need to put a tie-rod under the chassis once I get everything located. For now this is a temporary fix to get everything lined up. Plus I dont want the tie-rod to destabilize the rear end chassis until some of the other bulkheads are in place, it will cause the engine and back end to sag. - more to come on that story later.<br />
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Here's a rare 'top view' of the rear axle and engine layout. I say rare because I dont see too many builders exhibiting the layout of the engine to axle, in a construction view like this.<br />
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Here is a word picture of the bits on the axle from right to left. A1.5" aluminum tube axle has the following parts connected to it:<br />
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<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1" snap-ring for 1.25" axle</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" split locking ring collar</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25"-ID : 1.375"-OD x 3" wide Hub-to-axle spacer</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Cart Wheel (no keyway)</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" split locking ring collar</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Aluminum 8" axle spacer tube, 1.25"- ID</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" flanged set-screw axle bearing (no keyway)</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" split locking ring collar</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">.25" x 3" key stock </span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">70-tooth 'split' aluminum sprocket with keyed 6-point locking hub</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" split locking ring collar</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" split locking ring collar</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">.25" x 3" key stock </span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">8.25" MCP brake rotor with keyed 4-point locking hub</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" split locking collar</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" flanged set-screw axle bearing (no keyway)</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" split locking collar</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Aluminum 6.5" axle spacer tube with notch for keyway</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" split locking collar</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">.25" x 1.25" key stock </span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" ID Martin sprocket Sintered-Metal hub adapter w 4 through bolts</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">Cart Wheel (no keyway) with 4 holes drilled for the 4 through bolts</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1.25" split locking collar</span></li>
<li><span style="color: cyan;">1" snap-ring for 1.25" axle</span></li>
</ol>
And here is a different view of the same thing:<br />
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In both of the above pictures it shows a chinese hydraulic brake that I found at a local lawnmower fix-it shop, that is common on minibikes and micro ATV's. I mounted it poorly and it didn't give me the brake pressure I was expecting so I changed modes to the original MCP caliper.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cabOEWx9PBc/WFHnKwPa70I/AAAAAAAALjI/3udUe8qR2-8w5hAewqmqOnTmu_OsPcxTACEw/s1600/DSC00143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cabOEWx9PBc/WFHnKwPa70I/AAAAAAAALjI/3udUe8qR2-8w5hAewqmqOnTmu_OsPcxTACEw/s320/DSC00143.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
But you get the idea. The problem with the ZJ caliper is that its meant to be fixed to a tube flange with 2 flange bolts very VERY close to the rotational part of the brake. I had to modify the hub and the brake disc to try and get it to work, but failed. The MCP brake is superior in every way for this application - more to come on that soon. -CW</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-49114244824078557692016-12-10T20:26:00.000-08:002016-12-10T20:47:37.721-08:00The Rest of the Front End<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Azusa makes plenty of high quality parts like this 10" round steering wheel. Since I want a vintage look I don't find the standard molded-PVC-over-zinc-plate look appropriate. So i decided to wrap it with something called 'suede-cording' which comes in 20ft rolls off Amazon. If i get some time I will strip off the zinc on the spokes and paint it black, the polished finish doesn't float my boat.<br />
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<i>SIDE NOTE: At one point I had a persistent thought about doing a custom wheel (as many CK builders have done in the past) but then realized my time was worth more than having my own signature wheel, and that a few bucks would give me 90% of what I need...stress free. Maybe if I get some extra time in the future it will manifest itself into a custom wheel. For now i'm good with this design.</i><br />
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I managed to find this quick-disconnect steering wheel hub bracket on BMIkarts.com for $33.00 USD. I like it because it's solid, well built, and affordable.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gtQb2Ga-Y64/WEzT8sPaOrI/AAAAAAAALew/zv91SH7flI0DmM33HJiST1xxs4eMFY8rwCLcB/s1600/F126111164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gtQb2Ga-Y64/WEzT8sPaOrI/AAAAAAAALew/zv91SH7flI0DmM33HJiST1xxs4eMFY8rwCLcB/s320/F126111164.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Longacre Quick Disconnect</td></tr>
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This feature is necessary to get in-and-out of the front part of the kart chassis without removing my legs. Its also a good safety measure to have a removable wheel in the event that your steering shaft decides to find it's way into your chest cavity. The steering column is a 5/8" rod that is slightly out of dimension so what you see here is prep for grinding off about .1" of extra material that's keeping the flange bearings from fitting.<br />
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In any case, this is what the rest of the front end looks like. -CW</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-64253852855478106642016-12-10T19:11:00.002-08:002016-12-10T19:11:40.394-08:00Steering Rack and U-Joint<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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ARC Racing is a Go-Kart racing fabricator and manufacturer of high-performance parts in Albany Georgia. These two steering racks are from ARC, available direct from them (arcracing.com) or from several online re-sellsers like motivationtubing.com and bmikarts.com. The two versions differ from a horizontal thread or vertical post. I guess it depends on how accurately your tie-rods are mounted, mine were not so I chose the vertical post edition.<br />
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<br />Here is what the 1411 looks like on my chassis. The module is easy to mount with 3/8" shoulder bolts. Also in this picture is a u-joint. Pay no attention to my shoddy woodworking skills, there is not much glory in woodworking in this case - since I plan to use the geometry for the all aluminum version later. Think of wood as a budget substitute for what will eventually happen.<br />
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This is a cut and modified u-joint from a $5.00-USD discounted part (Spiderbox GX-150 steering link). An actual 5/8" u-joint runs in the $50.00-USD range, so this was a no-brainer. I had the opportunity to use a better fitting all-aluminum u-joint from a production mini-van steering column but decided that it would fall into the 'rare and exotic' category for those reading this looking for online discounts. Plus my ultimate goal is to show how easily attainable these parts can be, a special part from a production car would cost hundreds of dollars new which is the complete opposite. -CW<br />
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-88033634885416788612016-12-10T18:48:00.003-08:002016-12-14T16:20:44.624-08:00Front End 2 : Details<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruGZ7TAX_c0/WEy8PnmCuMI/AAAAAAAALdc/hB6fZkImF0Qc1YXHTOcSZtaI_ZSxnc6uQCLcB/s1600/DSC00131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ruGZ7TAX_c0/WEy8PnmCuMI/AAAAAAAALdc/hB6fZkImF0Qc1YXHTOcSZtaI_ZSxnc6uQCLcB/s640/DSC00131.JPG" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modified Azusa Spindle</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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In order to achieve the 'Ackerman' angle, I used some surveying line to measure from the center of the rear axle, to the center of the kingpins. Then did my best to cut/angle/re-weld the link on the kingping. This picture shows the result - which was a half-decent weld in my humble opinion. The Azusa spindles are easy to modify by comparison.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sGriN9sfe5I/WEy9nxl69uI/AAAAAAAALdo/SX0-p-vQIsgvCdftiooi6jAsYjH75bV7ACEw/s1600/20161029_105157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sGriN9sfe5I/WEy9nxl69uI/AAAAAAAALdo/SX0-p-vQIsgvCdftiooi6jAsYjH75bV7ACEw/s640/20161029_105157.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
To get all these loose parts to fit right was a process, of cutting, fitting, adjusting, re-measuring, and most of all patience. Using off-the-shelf parts without any 3D to use to measure requires patience. This view also shows a few key details, like what the spindle cut looked like prior to welding, and the 'washer plate' on the top of the axle and leaf springs. I feel like the leaf springs could have more curve here, so perhaps in the future I will make new ones from scratch that are more intended for this application. For now these work just fine. -CW<br />
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-36378986162413703152016-12-08T19:48:00.001-08:002016-12-18T18:21:06.873-08:00Front End 1 : Go Aluminum<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tubular Steel</td></tr>
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So the front axle of the Stevenson formula calls for a tubular steel "drop axle". This usually is fabricated using a tube bender and a welding fixture, or cut and weld angles of tubing. Sometimes builders use square tubing to avoid having to fab mounting brackets, square tubing weighs a bit more so there is a penalty- but it saves time and is more accurate to have a flat surface to mount things to like leaf springs and trailer bolts. If you do some research you may find that vintage Ford designs of drop axles have various sections, designs, and weights depending on the purpose. <br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NEggUNtR-YM/WEzIu8SREuI/AAAAAAAALeY/Nwa7N8XagvYi5oFyKTTxTr4SzNDb2m86gCLcB/s1600/FRONT_BACK-VIEW-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NEggUNtR-YM/WEzIu8SREuI/AAAAAAAALeY/Nwa7N8XagvYi5oFyKTTxTr4SzNDb2m86gCLcB/s320/FRONT_BACK-VIEW-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This requires a fixture, a welder, and a margin of error. The point is to establish jounce clearance above the axle for the chassis, and to allow a half-round leaf spring (or springs) to cushion the ride vertically. The pros-and-cons of doing this are debatable, suffice to say that this technique works well enough for most cyclekart builders. <br />
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Leaf springs are relatively challenging to find in small sizes. But this is one of the fun elements of this hobby - finding your own answer to the problems at hand. If you have the ability to have a local shop oil quench some mild steel, it's easy enough to make your own half-round springs for a nominal price. I leave it to you to find out more. One clue I can offer is that horse-drawn buggy supply companies offer a menu of springs of all sizes...and purposes.<br />
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And finally there are modern version of half-round leaf springs that are made from carbon fiber.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mEkI6wtzvHo/WFX5hSQCQAI/AAAAAAAALlE/2aaLWiBxRHoNc9irm2g0jlKtrg0rjXunwCLcB/s1600/img_6031_2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mEkI6wtzvHo/WFX5hSQCQAI/AAAAAAAALlE/2aaLWiBxRHoNc9irm2g0jlKtrg0rjXunwCLcB/s1600/img_6031_2.jpeg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Air Trekkers CZ Carbon-Fiber Leaf Springs</td></tr>
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Below is the concept for the Type 69 axle, an all aluminum tube axle with kingpin joints derived from a square tube section of aluminum. It is strong, flexible, and will be easy to adjust. In hindsight, it could have been a square section which would have been easier to make square to the brackets. At the end though the round shape gives me the flexibility to change the caster angle at any time - an ongoing topic with cycle kartery. <br />
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The spacer in the middle keeps the axle from shifting, I am using trailer bolts to lock the front leaf springs to the axle. The trailer bolts are easy to find at any hardware store.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ra287m_RWag/WFdD2lgZqpI/AAAAAAAALms/KEFnH7DzLHwVI-c6aZLWxVKL-Jm7_L96wCLcB/s1600/DSC00136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="152" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ra287m_RWag/WFdD2lgZqpI/AAAAAAAALms/KEFnH7DzLHwVI-c6aZLWxVKL-Jm7_L96wCLcB/s400/DSC00136.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The measurement for the axle was off the first time I cut it, because I forgot to factor in the length of the spindles. So i had to cut down the length to count for the very long Azusa spindles. To keep the front axle from shifting left-to-right, or twisting, there are two 'set screws' that lock the axle to this spacer collar, which frictions against the 'washer plate' on the top.<br />
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Choosing aluminum here saved me alot of weight. The steel axle as specified weighed 10 lbs without any hardware. It was strong, but not light. The aluminum version here weighs 4 lbs without hardware, but includes the kingpins and has a measure of flex. <br />
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-CW<br />
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-23990788537274223902016-12-08T19:17:00.002-08:002016-12-17T18:27:42.889-08:00A Tale of Two Cycle Karts<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-umT5FJEXZk8/WEog6OvFnGI/AAAAAAAALcQ/PkpGnyC7M4ka_Bh_bvPFAFFJWgudRnQXACLcB/s1600/20131013_011325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-umT5FJEXZk8/WEog6OvFnGI/AAAAAAAALcQ/PkpGnyC7M4ka_Bh_bvPFAFFJWgudRnQXACLcB/s400/20131013_011325.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steel Version 2013</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SsNu8aPAmfA/WFXz-ft1vbI/AAAAAAAALks/wyxSnVXW0cwc70TqiYTZhGXRPFb1L-7MwCLcB/s1600/statusa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="308" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SsNu8aPAmfA/WFXz-ft1vbI/AAAAAAAALks/wyxSnVXW0cwc70TqiYTZhGXRPFb1L-7MwCLcB/s400/statusa.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Current Status 2016</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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I was at this point in a build before when I decided to fine tune things and make it run as good as possible before 'shelling' with a body. The top image is of the Rotten Tuna which was supposed to be wrapped in a Mercedes Grand-Prix shell, but then along the way I realized that it wasn't what I wanted.<br />
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The second image shows where I am today - much lighter, much more stable, and a margin of reliability better. Along the way I learned that the standard fabrication techniques that most cycle-kart builders rely on are advanced for mere mortals. In other words the new design applies the idea of using found objects to a greater degree. The one key item that is different here is the front axle. Doing a front axle in aluminum took some special fabricating techniques that I'm not ashamed to admit were above my skill level.</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-20236038035791161842016-12-08T18:48:00.001-08:002016-12-08T18:48:13.805-08:00Wheels Part 4: The Answer<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
If you want lightness, and are willing to accept the fact that Azusa spindles are the best option then the answer is the 20" cart wheel with a 5/8" axle bore. There is no better wheel available for the money. It's pretty obvious what the advantages are. In addition I have found that the hub bore of this wheel is SAE 1-3/8".<br />
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I was able to get 4 of these for $200 from Kingston Saddlery.<br />
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And they are very robust. I did some additional research while writing this and determined that there is a catalog of wheels generally referred to as 'cart wheels' that come with 1/2", 3/8", 5/8", and 3/4" hubs. Most of these scenarios come with an outside bore diameter of 1-3/8" which is easy to space away from for a rear axle. YES FOR THE REAR AXLE.<br />
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Now along the way I realized that often times the motorcycles, cruiser bikes, and lawnmowers that use this wheel have a flange plate for a disc. Either a brake disc or a sprocket can be added to this wheel by using the space between the bearing and the outside bore. Its easy to accomplish this with a machine lathe and some aluminum stock, but finding a suitable part online is tricky.<br />
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I was able to find this guy, and it will work perfectly for any key hub, or brake plate.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ag7MJCSsaXI/WEoaT9ozf2I/AAAAAAAALb8/XYOniyJLngUWNl5UZq__uRyDAmi8Lm2_wCLcB/s1600/sintered%2Bhub.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ag7MJCSsaXI/WEoaT9ozf2I/AAAAAAAALb8/XYOniyJLngUWNl5UZq__uRyDAmi8Lm2_wCLcB/s400/sintered%2Bhub.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin Split Tapered Bushing (Sintered Metal)</td></tr>
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This will shim between a 1.25" axle and a 1.625" hub bore. Also it is keyed, so I can lock this to the axle. This solves all my problems locking a lightweight durable wheel to a 1.25" axle. This is the answer. -CW</div>
Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-34703296669945487232016-12-06T04:58:00.001-08:002016-12-08T18:48:33.363-08:00Wheels Part 3: The 5-lb Proposal<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So if you read the early posts about the design I built in CAD it shows an unusual wheel called a 'Marathon Flat Free Cart Tire' which includes the wheel.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XgXz6ioCpJQ/WEayUfasvSI/AAAAAAAALaA/3JxeQOvnKHsdBEo-imT8_Kif9GG-fq2mwCLcB/s1600/81IjTIxc6cL._SL1500_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XgXz6ioCpJQ/WEayUfasvSI/AAAAAAAALaA/3JxeQOvnKHsdBEo-imT8_Kif9GG-fq2mwCLcB/s400/81IjTIxc6cL._SL1500_.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marathon Flat Free Cart Tire</td></tr>
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Now looking at this one might as "that doesn't look strong enough" but believe me it is. This sucker is made from long strand glass fibers and composite resins and one wheel can handle about 100 lbs weight before starting to show signs of fatigue. Also the hub is reinforced inside and outside to help avoid shear when cornering. This thing is BOMBER and it only weighs 5 lbs. The foam alloy used for the tire is very tough, and unless you decide to go faster than 35mph this will be just fine.<br />
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So lets recap.<br />
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<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>Total weight penalty for 4 wheels is only 20-lbs</li>
<li>Outside diameter is the same as the 17" CT90 wheel and tire</li>
<li>The bearing sizes it comes standard with are 5/8" ID so no need to modify</li>
<li>This tire is tubeless and even though it's stiff will provide quite alot of jounce</li>
<li>it's possible to order on Amazon and its only $29.00</li>
</ol>
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You may ask "Wait did you just say 'top speed' of 35mph? Isnt that too slow?" the answer is no. The point is that you can use this tire with a stock engine setup and get incredible performance. After testing these they tend to 'roll' a bit when doing insane cornering, but as long as you remember it's a foam wheel and tire, and you aren't driving like <span class="st">Markku Alén it should be fine.</span><br />
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<span class="st">BUT I WANT TO GO FASTER THAN 35MPH!!!</span><br />
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<span class="st">Ok fine. here's the answer: There is another type of cart wheel used for towing deer parts and usually saved for donkey carts called a 'Tire on Spoke' wheel made by Northern Industrial.</span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eBSeBfbYNHA/WEa01xjpZdI/AAAAAAAALaI/97GQPyFSRSEbg5LWM3dVGxY7xP_o_X9eACLcB/s1600/145120_400x400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eBSeBfbYNHA/WEa01xjpZdI/AAAAAAAALaI/97GQPyFSRSEbg5LWM3dVGxY7xP_o_X9eACLcB/s320/145120_400x400.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This wheel is also very tough and comes standard with 5/8" ID bearings. If you want it even can be ordered with 3/4" bearings, which gives you slightly more hub diameter in case you find your 'keyway hub' adapter plate is on the larger side (more to come on that later). This setup costs about $32 a wheel and also weighs about 5 lbs (slightly more because of the rubber). Also available on Amazon, or direct from Northern Industrial. Easy to find, order, and count on for the future, and not from a scrap yard.<br />
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This is a standard bike construction wheel and is rated also for 100lbs each. But because the spokes and hub are steel, it will tend to flex alot more. Plus the tubed tire combo is alot more robust at speed. I have not been able to test this design at any speed higher than 40mph but it was plenty stable when I did. I estimate that top speed with this guy is around 50mph - but to verify I will do a high-speed-test run in the spring next year. -CW<br />
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2209067298636981814.post-87881463503483783852016-12-05T20:07:00.002-08:002016-12-06T04:58:33.249-08:00Wheels Part 2: Why So Heavy?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The first section on wheels was dedicated to the Honda CT90 trail bike moped wheel. The truth is that the CT90 wheel is no longer easily discovered, its slightly rare these days. And the ones available at a scrap yard are typically of scrapyard level quality. If you are lucky you might find a set for under $200 that aren't totally rusted, bent or damaged, but the weight is still a problem. And there is no easy solution to adding a 'key-way groove' to the hub - it was never designed or intended to be keyed.<br />
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CT90 wheel does have some advantages though, including shapes intended for braking surfaces, should you choose to add a brake at any point the mech is already there. And a well kept front hub includes an odometer gear that can actually be used to measure speed if you find an odometer cable long enough. Also the rear hub cush-drive is a reasonable answer to chain chop and torque steer.<br />
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But there are some glaring problems that lead me away from this wheel. This section is really about what happens after you realize that the CT90 wheel is not for you - it is most certainly not for me.<br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">CT90 Wheels are: </span><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: cyan;">
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<li><span style="color: cyan;">WAY too heavy at 27 lbs with wheel and tire EACH for a total of 108 lbs.</span></li>
<span style="color: cyan;">
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<li><span style="color: cyan;">Hard to make SAE bearings fit with an Azusa spindle accurately</span></li>
<span style="color: cyan;">
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<li><span style="color: cyan;">Difficult to attach keyway hubs, or machine a key-way</span></li>
<span style="color: cyan;">
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<li><span style="color: cyan;">More rare these days - unless you live near a giant motorcycle graveyard</span></li>
<span style="color: cyan;">
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<li><span style="color: cyan;">Almost the same dimension as a BMX wheel and tire...or even a buggy...</span></li>
</ul>
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Moving on.<br />
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A few of our key group members brought up the point that Mopeds in history used 'mag' wheels, or cast alloy wheels. I researched this and found some nice examples like this Puch 'Snowflake':<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2loZH_ZmDLY/WEY4sIpcVJI/AAAAAAAALZw/t5H6InlkAQ4U2LXrziH-BLRB1nfRFNnwgCLcB/s1600/puch%2Bwheels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2loZH_ZmDLY/WEY4sIpcVJI/AAAAAAAALZw/t5H6InlkAQ4U2LXrziH-BLRB1nfRFNnwgCLcB/s320/puch%2Bwheels.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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One problem with this type of wheel (from an Italian Moped) is that they are not cheap. Basically for a pair (front/rear) of these it cost around $320 on myronsmopeds.com. They look very cool, and would work perfectly but are simply too pricey for this type of thing, and they only work with 12mm axles.<br />
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This is a problem. At 12mm this axle will not support the weight of turning given the overall weight of our vehicle. If we are able to make a lighter chassis, and shorten the length of the spindle it may be possible in the future - but I have yet to see a 12mm axle with the strength required for the types of forces involved in a Cycle Kart.<br />
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That being said, I believe there is a solution out there that employs the use of a machined hub to replace the center section of the Puch Snowflake. This is an advanced theory, so I will just mention it here briefly and not go into detail.<br />
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In summary the Puch Snowflake 'looks cool' and 'fits the bill' but is not a good answer. -CW<br />
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Welchihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10634572732774975338noreply@blogger.com0